Tuesday, July 14, 2009

Suntans in the 1920s & 30s

For reasons unknown to us, the idea prevails that beauties of the 1930s were always pale. We constantly hear claims that to be period-authentic, one must (there's that word again!) avoid the sun. This is revisionist history. We are certainly not implying that all 20s-30s women were tan, but it is likewise incorrect to suggest that the ultra-pale look favored by many vintage women today is the only authentic one.

A vogue for tanning began in the late 20s. It was smart to be tan in the summer - also in winter, when those who could afford to went skiing or to one of the new "winter playground" resorts that could now be comfortably reached by train or plane, or on a pleasure cruise. The international set flocked to the French Riviera, where according to legend, Coco Chanel "accidentally" got a tan while yachting and supposedly created a fad for bronzed, glowing skin. The 1929 ad for Marie Earle cosmetics asserts that "smart young things" created the suntan vougue in Palm Beach in 1927. It was also in 1927 that the Southern Pacific Railroad began running special excursion trains called "Suntan Specials" between the San Francisco Bay Area and the beach resort of Santa Cruz. Pictures of bronzed Hollywood stars like Joan Crawford poolside or at the beach helped popularize the trend. By the mid-1930s, a tan was such an expected part of a vacation to sunny climates that apparently no one would believe you'd actually been there if you didn't come back with one - Fred MacMurray goes under a sun lamp to fake a tan in 1935's Hands across the Table so his girlfriend won't know he missed his boat to Bermuda; similarly, in The Awful Truth (1937) Cary Grant gets the sunlamp treatment to convince his wife he'd been in Florida.

So, worshipping the sun was really a new thing in the late 20s. Just a few years earlier, a tan was something to be avoided, as in this 1924 ad for Tan-No-More, a product that prevented sunburn, tanning, and "all of the injuries from "sun, wind and dust." Most young women of the Art Deco era had probably grown up learning from their mothers and grandmothers to protect their skin from the sun, as in this 1912 ad for Ponds. It was true in their day, but the fashion had changed. Suntans were now not only fashionable and chic but a "healthy tan" was considered physically benefical.

Sunscreens and Skin Care
1920s & 30s women were well aware of the sun's damaging and aging effects. Many products were developed during this time to prevent sunburning and moisturize skin before or after sunning. They were typically called sun creams or sunburn creams. Some sources attribute the invention of sunblock to L'Oreal founder Eugene Schueller in 1936, others claim it was chemist Franz Greitter in 1938. We know that sunblocking creams were available before either date.
Elizabeth Arden introduced her "Sun Pruf Cream" in the summer of 1933. This ad, from 1934, claims that "burning and peeling have become unnecessary evils." Dorothy Gray advertised her suntan cream in 1936 as "the original burn control sun cream, famous for many years of repeated use at smart resorts." It promised to "control your tan without homely redness or painful burning." Another high-end company, Lentheric, sold a "sunplexion" cream to prevent sunburn in 1938. We can't vouch for the effectiveness of these products - merely note that their intent and purpose was as sunburn preventatives. Sun Protection Factor (SPF) ratings were still a few decades off, but wearers could adjust the level of blockage they desired by applying either a thick or thin layer of cream. To protect the complexion from sun and wind damage, Frances Denny offered an astringent cream as early as 1932. The well-established complexion soap Palmolive touted its benefits for sun and wind damaged skin as well in this 1930s ad featuring the Dionne "Quins."

There were also suntan oils and other products that were supposed to aid tanning. Elizabeth Arden's came in "delectable kidney-shaped bottles in costume colors for the beach" (need we say it - we want one of each). Another group of 1930s California women tried a "milk spray" said to protect the skin from burning and peeling while accellerating the tanning process. We'd like to ask: how'd that work out?















































Make up
New products and shades of make up were developed to create a fake tan or better show off a coveted natural tan. Our earlier manicure post discussed some nail polish shades created to compliment suntanned skin. There were also new lipsticks and powder. In 1929, Coty came out with Cotytan powder - the "perfect shade of summer chic," as well as a liquid powder that could be applied to faces, "slim bare legs and arms," shoulders and backs. It gave one a "glorious even tan that beats the sun at his own game - and livens you with a new exotic beauty, utterly thrilling. It's the newest vogue of the season." Marie Earle's Palm Beach salon offered "sunburned makeup" for a faux tan that left her patrons "with the look of radient sungoddesses" and also claimed to ward off "every burning ray of sunlight." Not to be outdone, Dorothy Gray sold face powder in "Suntone" to "forecast or match your tan." as well as a smart lipstick in "Tawny" to accent one's suntan - "the perfect summer lipstick." Rival Elizabeth Arden had her Velva Beauty Cream to "make you appear tanned and chic... really a perfect, ready made tan - indispensible with shorts." It came in four shades: eggshell, dark, evening, and suntan (a "ruddy brown"). We tend to associate leg makeup only with the stocking shortages of WWII, but it began well before then.


For those who couldn't get away, there were always sun lamps. Besides providing fake alibis (Cary never does explain where he really spent all that time), sun/heat lamps were thought to have a health benefit and advertisers bragged about their "powerful Ultra-Violet rays." There is not a lot of scholarly research on the history of tanning; most information floating around seems to be largely anecdotal, and in many cases, erroneous. For further reading, try "Suntanning in 20th Century American" by Kerry Segrave.








Wednesday, August 20, 2008

More 1933 McCall Patterns





























The restoration continues. Having peeled off as much as the offending newsprint as possible, we used a damp sponge and a scraper to clean up the rest. It's tedious but not really difficult. A few of "the girls" are missing entirely- probably the orignal owner cut them out back in '33. More coming soon.

Sunday, August 10, 2008

1933 McCall Pattern Catalogue Desecration Undone!


Recent flea market jaunts yielded, among other goodies, a treasure: a McCall Complete Printed Pattern Catalogue for August 1933! Only problem – some misguided fiend had PASTED newspaper articles OVER the fashion plates, turning the book into, essentially, a scrapbook of the most boring newspaper articles ever. This heinous act of vandalism seems to have occurred from 1937-1941. We normally LOVE reading old newspapers, and can’t resist old scrapbooks either. But this was awful. Not only covering up those beautiful fashion images, but… for articles about the Siamese twin chickens, the big barn fire at the Brown’s farm, a kid named Herbert Hoover Depression and his baby brother Franklin Delano Roosevelt Recession (we don’t even understand that
last one)??
Well, for $5, it seemed worth trying to see whether it was possible to peel away most of the newsprint and reveal the drawings once again. The results were pretty fair. It became a mission… to free these poor women from their newsprint prisons and let them look haughtily out at the world once more. There was so much to catch up on: FDR won the election and went on to serve 4 terms – really…the Depression was ended… little Herbert Hoover Depression went on to need a lot of therapy and changed his name to “Bob.”
It was very exciting to see the girls' bright colors emerge, good as new, from behind the faded newspaper. We also “appreciate” that the articles were so WELL adhered to the page – some scrapbookers would have been content to merely glue the corners – but not our boy (or girl). We vowed to hunt down the responsible party and give him or her (no clew by the nature of the articles) a well-deserved whipping. We don’t care if he or she is now 85.









































Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Picnics - Vintage Style

We have a road trip coming up and are planning a motor picnic along the way. Where we're headed, there aren't any cute vintage roadside restaurants, so why not? Better take a peek inside the picnic suitcase - last time we grabbed it for an impromptu outing, we found inside a burned-out sparkler, a lipstick smeared napkin, and a champagne cork - obviously the remnants of some Gatsby picnic long past...





WHAT TO EAT?


Several period menus below can be found on this devine food timeline website http://www.foodtimeline.org/foodpicnics.html.











Are your picnic manners everything they should be? We like this excerpt from the 1920s hilarious Donald Ogden Stewart etiquette book spoof, “Perfect Behavior: A Guide for Ladies and Gentlemen in All Social Crisis” found here: http://www.victoriana.com/1920s/picnic.php




Saturday, July 26, 2008

Cocktails

We exaggerated - warm weather also means classic gin cocktails! A favorite of the moment is a Pink Gin, the poisoned cocktail from Agatha Christie's Poirot short story "Triangle at Rhodes." It's a jigger of dry gin with a dash of angostera bitters



Some of our other favorites are from a slender little 1936 book So Red the Nose: or Breath in the Afternoon edited by Sterling North and Carl Kroch. The title is a spoof of Stark Young's recent best selling novel, So Red the Rose.

"It takes steady nerves to mix a Singapore Gin Sling or wrestle with king cobras. But only the finest ingredients go into a "'Bring 'Em Back ALive (Frank) Gin Buck. They're kinder to your throat.



Frank Buck's Singapore Gin Sling
(Otherwise known as the "Bring 'Em Back Alive" Cocktail)
1 jigger D.O.M. (Benedictine)
2 jiggers cherry brandy
3 jiggers dry gin
juice of 1 lime
dash of orange bitters
dash of angostura bitters

Add water or soda (as preferred) in amount equal to the above ingredients.
Mix with swizzle stick until foamy.
Add ice chipped fine, and serve

"This cocktail was 'fiendishly plotted, with murder in mind' by the creator of that supersleuth Philo Vance, who knows more about ceramics, Scotties, liquors and Broadway than any living art critic."

S.S. Van Dine's The Canary Murder Case Cocktail

1/2 jigger dry gin
1/2 jigger cognac
1/2 jigger yellow vermouth
1 jigger orange juice
1 dash orange bitters
Shake well.

Friday, July 25, 2008

Beach Pyjamas







They're not just for the beach anymore!


All images from 1929 & 1932



































A Bathing Beauty Must Accessorize

All from 1929 and 1932